How to add a drip cap to existing windows without removing siding
Retrofitting a drip cap onto existing windows usually requires lifting the siding to slip the flashing in properly, which makes many homeowners consider just relying on thick caulking instead. However, relying solely on caulk forces you to constantly check and re-seal the joints every year to prevent water leaks. Drawing on the quotes provided, the main dilemma is whether to force the drip cap under the siding or skip it entirely and rely only on caulk.
What people tried
Every workaround mentioned in the threads below. We haven’t tested any of them — and nobody here is claiming they worked.
Found another way around this?
Share your steps and trade-offs so fellow engineers don't have to reinvent the wheel. No account required.
- 1Just caulk the joint and check it every yearDid this help you?
- 2Cut the top L off the drip edge, slide it in, and caulk it in placeDid this help you?
- 3Use an 1/8 grinder blade to cut the siding to create space to slip the drip cap inDid this help you?
- 4Framing the rough opening slightly larger than the window, shimming it to be plumb, and screwing through the sides into the framing.Did this help you?
In their words
Unedited, grouped by where they were said, most upvoted first within each place, each linked to the thread it came from.
“I have this leftover retrofit window and I want to install it in a new shed. Is this possible? Do I need to get a frame for it? The walls aren't framed yet on the shed, so I'll frame the walls around whatever opening I need for the window.”source ↗
“I just purchased a home and almost none of the windows have a drip cap. They are all just caulked where the siding meets the window frame.”source ↗
“Do I try to lift the signing up and slip a drip cap in there or do I just caulk the shit out of it and check it every year?”source ↗