How to remove a snapped bolt in a tight space?
Standard drills and extractors require more depth than the restricted three-inch clearance available around deeply snapped bolts. This lack of room prevents you from getting a drill bit far enough into the recess to extract the broken fastener.
What the numbers show
Counted from the threads quoted below. How we count
- The most recent one is from October 2026.
- This comes up 8.3× more often in r/AskMechanics than across the site as a whole.
What people tried
Every workaround mentioned in the threads below. We haven’t tested any of them — and nobody here is claiming they worked.
Found another way around this?
Share your steps and trade-offs so fellow engineers don't have to reinvent the wheel. No account required.
- 1epoxying the part in placeDid this help you?
- 2welding a nut onto the broken boltDid this help you?
- 3using a 90-degree drill adapterDid this help you?
- 4pulling the engine to gain clearanceDid this help you?
- 5Using vice grips on any exposed nubDid this help you?
- 6Drilling and extracting the broken pieceDid this help you?
- 7Using JB Weld in the hole with remaining threadsDid this help you?
- 8Using left-hand drill bitsDid this help you?
- 9Using an extractor bit or easy-out after drilling a guide holeDid this help you?
- 10Using an open-ended wrench instead of a socketDid this help you?
- 11Disconnecting the knuckle from the strutDid this help you?
- 12Applying heatDid this help you?
- 13Using a hammer to release the ball joint with the nut still partially onDid this help you?
- 14Cutting it off or removing the CV axleDid this help you?
- 15soak with lubricantDid this help you?
- 163 jaw pullerDid this help you?
- 17bearing pullerDid this help you?
- 18heating it upDid this help you?
- 19Using WD-40 to loosen screwsDid this help you?
- 20Attempting to use a screwdriver, pliers, or vice gripsDid this help you?
- 21Using a close quarters hacksaw to carefully cut them outDid this help you?
- 22Using a nut splitterDid this help you?
- 23Trying a reciprocating saw or a dremelDid this help you?
- 24Welding a nut to the remaining boltDid this help you?
- 25Heating the bolt and using crayon wax as a penetrantDid this help you?
- 26Loosening the rest of the mounting bolts to shift the pump forward for clearanceDid this help you?
- 27Using a socket and extension through the holes in the pulleyDid this help you?
- 28Turning the steering wheel to shift belt tensionDid this help you?
- 29Using a pry bar to relieve pressureDid this help you?
- 30Using a pulley puller tool or cutting the boltDid this help you?
- 31Put nuts on those studs, tighten until they pull through. Replace with the proper boltsDid this help you?
- 32Take the shock back out and extract what's left of the bolts. Alternatively take the shocks out and knock out the welded in nuts. Use nuts and bolts to put it back together.Did this help you?
- 33Punch the old ones out, get nut and bolt grade 8. Slap it all back togetherDid this help you?
- 34Use a flathead under the head of the screw to lever it away from the lip while unscrewingDid this help you?
- 35Cut a slot with a dremel and use a flat head screwdriverDid this help you?
- 36Snip the head of the screw offDid this help you?
- 37Get a die grinder and cut it off as low as you can safely goDid this help you?
- 38Use a metal drill bit and grind it outDid this help you?
- 39Using a telescoping basin wrenchDid this help you?
- 40Trying specialized offset wrenchesDid this help you?
- 41Taking apart the union to apply thread sealant like MegaLoc instead of replacing itDid this help you?
- 42Disconnecting upstream joints to relocate the union to an accessible areaDid this help you?
- 43Hiring a plumberDid this help you?
- 44Using a compressor and air hammerDid this help you?
- 45Using a hard punch to shatter the tapDid this help you?
- 46Using a wireless Dremel with a solid carbide bitDid this help you?
- 47Spray with penetrating fluid and use emery clothDid this help you?
- 48Hammer a tightly fitting six-point or impact socket onto the rounded boltDid this help you?
- 49Loosen the transmission mount and rock the engine forward for more clearanceDid this help you?
- 50Use a bolt or screw extraction setDid this help you?
- 51taking it to a mechanic to drill and tapDid this help you?
- 52using the edge of a chisel and a hammer to reverse out the snapped boltDid this help you?
- 53using a punch to spin it by hand if it didn't bottom outDid this help you?
- 54Attaching a phillips head bit to the screw with epoxy (like JB Weld Steelstik) to let it cure and break it looseDid this help you?
- 55Using a right angle drill adapter to try to drill out the screwDid this help you?
- 56Using the warranty to get a replacement toolDid this help you?
- 57Drilling out the entire broken extractor and boltDid this help you?
- 58Driving with fewer screws and hoping it does not leakDid this help you?
- 59Using an easy out kitDid this help you?
- 60Using a bolt extractor kit, long angled pliers, and PB blasterDid this help you?
- 61Buying a right angle drillDid this help you?
- 62Finding someone with a stud welderDid this help you?
- 63Pulling the alternator to gain more spaceDid this help you?
- 64Drilling through the boltDid this help you?
- 65Grinding or hammering off the welded nutDid this help you?
- 66Taking the vehicle to a specialized exhaust shopDid this help you?
- 67Applying WD-40Did this help you?
- 68Wrapping paracord around the wrench handle for extra leverageDid this help you?
In their words
Unedited, grouped by where they were said, most upvoted first within each place, each linked to the thread it came from.
“That chinesium was not strong enough for a bolt. Literally twisted right off in an instant. Felt like mush”source ↗
“I was working my Honda Jazz 2004 and I am struggling to remove this ball joint.”source ↗
“there is no space for me to put a socket or ball joint separator above the socket. Do I have to remove the CV axle?”source ↗
“I was replacing the belt tensioner and the lower bolt snapped around 4-5 cm in. Is there a good way to extract a bolt that far in or does anyone know a one time solution for it?”source ↗
“I’m a big dumb idiot and broke one of the three top mount bolts off inside the mount. The hole goes through all the way. What is the best way to proceed?”source ↗
“I am trying to remove a 20-year-old seized bolt. I made the mistake of cutting the head off, thinking I would be able to get it out.”source ↗
“Now I've cut some of the nut off with a nut splitter, but I can't seem to get the rest out.”source ↗
“I cannot fit my angle grinder in this space.”source ↗
“05 Silverado, did not pay attention, and I installed the shock on the wrong side of the control arm. Next thing you know, the bolts holding it on the wrong side snap off on me. I have no welder, and I want to know if there is an easy way to get myself out of this. If not, I will try to have a shop help”source ↗
“The lower phillips screw attaching it to the airbox is rusty and entirely stripped out (it was already partially stripped when I started, and my attemps made it worse.) However, it's in a very tight spot with the body of the MAF above and metal below.”source ↗
“Things I cannot do: weld anything to it (don't have a welder), grab it with pliers (it's a flange pan head screw so there's nothing to grip plus no room), hammer a larger bit into it (no room to swing a hammer).”source ↗
“I broke the exact same one!”source ↗
“These things are horrible. All brands I’ve used”source ↗
“Before I get any criticism regarding the broken tap, I’m well aware of my error. I feel shit enough, I just need to finish this today so that I can have my life back.”source ↗
“Any suggestions on how to remove the one near the fire wall that I cant see?”source ↗
“AC pulley bearing is stuck on the shaft. I have tried to soak with lubricant, 3 jaw puller but can't find any small enough to fit in the space between the electromagnet and pulley, bearing puller but same thing with the puller heads being too big.”source ↗
“Can't back it out further, can't screw it back in 😞”source ↗
“Been there with a stuck wrench on an old 4Runner. That moment when you realize it's not going either direction is a special kind of frustration.”source ↗
“I changed my thermostat on my Mazda 3 2008, and I broke off the top left screw since I didn't screw it in straight.”source ↗
“I'm just scared it might leak.”source ↗
“I've tried a bolt extractor kit, long angled pliers, PB blaster - my clearance is bad so I can't get a dead center drill on it.”source ↗
“should I go buy a right angle drill and keep trying?”source ↗
“I was looking at the 90* drills/adapters . I don’t have any of those atm I can buy one. But im just not sure I can get the necessary depth from that and a drill bit to reach the bolt . It looks about 3” of confined space near the bolt”source ↗
“It was a crossspost , posted to City forum . Here just looking for advice on DIY , considering the space is limited not sure how to get a drill bit far enough in”source ↗
“I’m trying to take off my water pump and I got 3/6 bolts out. I’m struggling to remove the last 3 bc they’re stripping. I can’t fit any sockets in the tight space that I have and my spanners are doing more harm than good.”source ↗
“I don’t have a lot of room for a regular hammer and the pipe wiggles, I don’t want to damage the manifold, or I’m in even deeper shit”source ↗
“Broken m6 HSS tap..tfsi engine side coolant flange bolt”source ↗
“Any quick advice would be appreciated because this mf just slowed down a big turbo forged build..”source ↗
“No power source for wired tools..”source ↗
“Wireless Dremel with solid carbide bit would help?”source ↗
“Was installing a part and was running a wire through the steering column. It’s at a very awkward angle and one of the bolts is very close to the center console so power tools cannot fit. Would a mechanic be able to extract this? And roughly how much would this cost?”source ↗
“Problem is I have like now way of getting a drill down there. Also since the screw went in there tilted it is in there extremely tight.”source ↗
“I snapped a rusty bolt off in the manifold. There's a nut on the back that the internet is saying is welded on. I drilled through the bolt but it's still rusted and stuck on.”source ↗
“The only problem now is how to get the tools such as a chisel and hammer actually IN there lol. It's a really tight squeeze.”source ↗
“It's welded but I can still take it off? It's tough getting any tool in there. A drill still won't drill straight on”source ↗
“I am at the literal last step of removing the starter and this bolt will not budge.”source ↗
“I can not fit a hammer in from either above or below for a little help in form of a few bangs, so my next attempt came with some paracord wrapped around the end of the wrench handle for a little extra leverage, still no movement.”source ↗
“The window will not allow us to open it due to the head of the screw being behind the metal lip of the window to the left of it.”source ↗
“The head is not totally stripped, we just can’t get it past the metal lip.”source ↗
“The pipe union near my furnace needs replacing. It was leaking gas and tightening didn't seal it up. Problem is it is stuck between the furnace and ductwork, so I am struggling to get any wrench in there and get leverage.”source ↗
“So any suggestions on getting access, including any potential tool that may help? I bought a telescoping basin wrench but that doesn't really get sufficient leverage.”source ↗
“when I went to turn them, the tops almost disintegrated they were so old and rusty.”source ↗
“Theres not enough slot left in the screw head to use a screwdriver and I can't get them to turn using pliers or a vice grip.”source ↗
“it's less than 6 inches wide and the drain is about 8 or 9 inches down”source ↗
Where this came up
People with this problem also raised
- 4How to get a stuck screw out of a pipe
- 4How to tighten nuts in tight spaces where a wrench won't fit
- 6How to remove a broken masonry screw stuck in a wall
- 2How to loosen a shallow stuck locknut with no clearance
- 8How to remove an oil filter with zero clearance
- 3Tie rod jam nut rusted solid and won't turn