How to fix a gap behind an outlet faceplate
Changing an outlet often rips off the silicone putty used to shape uneven surfaces, leaving no secure way to attach the faceplate without a gap. Additionally, oversized box holes can prevent traditional outlet screws from holding the cover properly.
What the numbers show
Counted from the threads quoted below. How we count
- People have been saying this in most months since September 2026.
What people tried
Every workaround mentioned in the threads below. We haven’t tested any of them — and nobody here is claiming they worked.
Found another way around this?
Share your steps and trade-offs so fellow engineers don't have to reinvent the wheel. No account required.
How to fix a gap behind an outlet faceplate
- 1Using drywall putty or joint compound to fill the gapDid this help you?
- 2Cutting open drywall to install a new boxDid this help you?
- 3Filling the gap with wood blocks and adding a Simpson Strong Tie Compression Tension StrapDid this help you?
- 4Cutting a new full height stud right under the break taking the load down to the bottom plateDid this help you?
- 5Extending one of the top plate boards while replacing a rotted headerDid this help you?
- 63D printing a spacerDid this help you?
- 7Recessing the junction box further into the wallDid this help you?
- 8Using a deeper electrical boxDid this help you?
- 9Cut a slightly larger hole and install an old work single gang box or low voltage bracket.Did this help you?
- 10Use a small drywall patch kit to fill the hole, sand it flat, apply spray texture, and remount the plate.Did this help you?
- 11Apply white silicone to the back of the plate and glue it directly to the wall.Did this help you?
- 12Applying silicone caulk to seal the interior and exterior gaps.Did this help you?
- 13Using a non-flammable air sealant around the pipe.Did this help you?
In their words
Unedited, grouped by where they were said, most upvoted first within each place, each linked to the thread it came from.
“As it currently is there is an ~5 in' gap in the double top plate where wood was cut away. Part of this gap is directly above the windows' king stud, so the king stud is basically not carrying any load.”source ↗
“What is the best DIY way to fix this? (i.e. I don't want to rip out the wall and lay new 8 foot long 2x4s.)”source ↗
“From what I've researched, the fix is to fill the gap with 5in' wood blocks and add a Simpson Strong Tie Compression Tension Strap, but I don't see how that would address the vertical load issue? or would it?”source ↗
“This is the ventilation pipe of the tankless water heater. It goes out to the side of the house. Builder says this is acceptable. Am I crazy to think that it is not? The pipe should be properly fitted into the hole… Also, light visibly passes through from the outside during the day.”source ↗
“There is still a small gap around where I mounted the box and the faceplate is not flush with the drywall.”source ↗
“Outlet change ripped off the silicone putty that was shaped on the top half, now there is no way to attach the faceplate without a gap.”source ↗
“turns out their bedframe hit the coax plate completely breaking it off and the cable tore apart the wall where you would typically have the screw mount for the plate.”source ↗
“Does anyone have any advice how I can easily get this repaired without bringing property management into the situation cuz I know they're gunna charge me a buttload.”source ↗
“I know, ridiculous hack job number 2 from previous owner, those were on there originally now the holes in the box are too wide for traditional outlet screws.”source ↗
Where this came up
People with this problem also raised
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