How to stop DIY pavers from shifting and sinking over time
DIY paver walkways often shift and sink over time due to thin base layers, missing installation components, or improper aggregate choices like using angular stone without fines. This lack of proper structural support leads to uneven surfaces and drainage problems that compromise the long-term durability of the project.
What people tried
Every workaround mentioned in the threads below. We haven’t tested any of them — and nobody here is claiming they worked.
Found another way around this?
Share your steps and trade-offs so fellow engineers don't have to reinvent the wheel. No account required.
- 1Using a proper deeper base layerDid this help you?
- 2Installing paver edging flush against unsupported edgesDid this help you?
- 3Switching to concrete instead of paversDid this help you?
- 4Ensuring proper leveling and pitch away from the houseDid this help you?
- 5using alternative aggregatesDid this help you?
- 6adding binding agentsDid this help you?
- 7wet setting flagstone instead of dry settingDid this help you?
- 8excavating 8 inches below grade for a 4-inch compacted base, 2-inch sand layer, and 2-inch flagstoneDid this help you?
In their words
Unedited, grouped by where they were said, most upvoted first within each place, each linked to the thread it came from.
“I keep seeing this type of diy project and it seems doable as long as you plan it out, buy the correct materials and get your underground lines marked. But I am curious if this would cause unanticipated problems like drainage, shifting over time, sinking etc?”source ↗
“How is angular stone with shifting ? Thinking 1/4 inch of cream buff limestone minus fines I want it to compact and not shift much. Is this possible”source ↗
“So I need to excavated 4-6 inches deep then use a road base then sand right??”source ↗
Where this came up
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