Intermittent car hesitation with no trouble codes
Electrical or charging system anomalies—such as a weak alternator or hidden voltage drops—can disrupt powertrain sensors without setting a diagnostic trouble code. This leaves owners replacing mechanical components in circles while the underlying power supply fault continues to trigger random engine or transmission hesitation under load.
What the numbers show
Counted from the threads quoted below. How we count
- Most of it landed at once — the busiest month was September 2026, with 21 people.
- This comes up 11.2× more often in r/MechanicAdvice than across the site as a whole.
What people tried
Every workaround mentioned in the threads below. We haven’t tested any of them — and nobody here is claiming they worked.
Found another way around this?
Share your steps and trade-offs so fellow engineers don't have to reinvent the wheel. No account required.
- 1rebuilding or replacing ignition, timing, intake, and transfer case componentsDid this help you?
- 2draining and replacing fluidsDid this help you?
- 3replacing ABS sensorsDid this help you?
- 4taking the vehicle to a place that installs batteries to test the battery and charging system for freeDid this help you?
- 5using a cheap multimeter instead of an unfamiliar testerDid this help you?
- 6Resetting the fuel adaptation temporarily restores normal driving behavior.Did this help you?
- 7Replacing components such as the battery, ground cable, spark plugs, carburetor, solenoid, coil, and ignition module.Did this help you?
- 8Checking for stored diagnostic trouble codes.Did this help you?
- 9Changing the batteryDid this help you?
- 10Checking accessible electrical groundsDid this help you?
- 11Checking oil level and replacing the oil pressure sensorDid this help you?
- 12wiggling or shaking wires behind the glove box to temporarily restore normal functionDid this help you?
- 13turning the car off and back on againDid this help you?
- 14Leaving the vehicle at the dealership until they find a solutionDid this help you?
- 15Clearing codes with a scan tool and waiting to see if the check engine light returnsDid this help you?
- 16Hiring mobile mechanics for diagnosticsDid this help you?
- 17Replacing components like fuel pumps and batteries based on diagnostic codesDid this help you?
- 18Consulting online automotive advice communitiesDid this help you?
- 19Scanning fault memory multiple times at different independent repair shopsDid this help you?
- 20Replacing potential faulty components like charge air hoses on speculationDid this help you?
- 21throwing parts and hoses at the car to learnDid this help you?
- 22recording live data using a scannerDid this help you?
- 23switching to neutral and back to driveDid this help you?
- 24avoiding driving it until it is checkedDid this help you?
- 25letting the car cool 20-30 minDid this help you?
- 26feathering the gas pedal to slowly speed upDid this help you?
- 27Check the wiring connector down by the crank pulley for brittle wires or loose pinsDid this help you?
- 28swapping coil packsDid this help you?
- 29fresh oil changeDid this help you?
- 30new spark plugsDid this help you?
- 31new fuel injectorsDid this help you?
- 32replacing the MAF sensorDid this help you?
- 33running injector cleaner through the engineDid this help you?
- 34Unplugging and replugging the intercooler connector or cableDid this help you?
- 35Driving the car until it happens again as advised by mechanicsDid this help you?
- 36taking the car to a dealership or local mechanic for repairsDid this help you?
- 37using a code reader or OBD scanner tool to check error codesDid this help you?
- 38replacing parts like the airbox and EGR valve multiple timesDid this help you?
- 39unplugging the battery and PCMDid this help you?
- 40driving for 15-20 minutes until the car exits limp modeDid this help you?
- 41bought a diagnostic code readerDid this help you?
- 42plugged the car into a battery trickle chargerDid this help you?
- 43checked the engine wires and plug connections visuallyDid this help you?
- 44waited for a mechanic to returnDid this help you?
- 45replaced the batteryDid this help you?
- 46taking it to a workshop multiple timesDid this help you?
- 47Ignoring minor inconveniences like faulty BluetoothDid this help you?
- 48Getting OBD tests done at auto parts storesDid this help you?
- 49Testing components with a multimeterDid this help you?
- 50Taking the vehicle to professional repair shops, though they frequently struggle to diagnose intermittent electrical ghosts.Did this help you?
- 51Moving the shifter to Neutral to bypass the park positionDid this help you?
- 52Replacing suspected parts like the neutral safety switch at homeDid this help you?
- 53Towing the vehicle to a shop hoping it stays broken long enough to be testedDid this help you?
- 54Jumping the car with a portable jump starter packDid this help you?
- 55Cleaning battery terminals down to bare metal to check for corrosionDid this help you?
- 56Testing for voltage drop or a parasitic drawDid this help you?
In their words
Unedited, grouped by where they were said, most upvoted first within each place, each linked to the thread it came from.
“I’m going to try to go to a shop within the next few days, but I’m kind of worried about getting upcharged for random things I don’t actually need.”source ↗
“last week I started my car and it instantly started revving by itself.”source ↗
“Car will run fine then acts like its limp mode and wont let u press the gas”source ↗
“yesterday on my drive to work it stopped letting me give it gas once again!”source ↗
“The screen glitches red back and forth a few times and the speedometer bounces.”source ↗
“I’ve literally had nothing but issues with this vehicle since I’ve gotten it.”source ↗
“Been experiencing loss of power at cruising speeds. Randomly when driving 30-50 mph, car feels like the throttle has been disconnected for anywhere from 5-10 seconds before power is restored.”source ↗
“At this point, I feel dumb because I’ve spent money trying to find the root cause and haven’t really gotten anywhere. It’s been taking up a lot of my headspace and I wanted to see if the internet had any suggestions.”source ↗
“Could this be the cause of alternator not charging properly my first time testing and I been having charging issues and slow crank?”source ↗
“did just replace battery recently and still charging issues”source ↗
“My car is also jerking—it’s a Porsche Cayenne 958 GTS 2012 M48.02.”source ↗
“Also, for some reason, Maxis won’t adapt the kickdown.”source ↗
“Fuel consumption has increased, even though the computer says it’s 20 liters per 100 km.”source ↗
“okay thanks for letting me know”source ↗
“It’s been happening for awhile. I changed the battery and checked grounds that I could get to but nothing has fixed it. 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE. Advice or direction?”source ↗
“They say they will provide a loaner if it's a Kia problem. If they can't a problem.... no loaner!”source ↗
“Grandmas truck had a p1131 code pop up the other day and my scan tool showed possible causes.”source ↗
“I got home and she said the light turned off, scanned the truck, no more codes.”source ↗
“In my head that means intermitent vaccum leak or a bad wire to the O2 sensor. Whats everyone elses thoughts on this?”source ↗
“I've had the fault memory read out several times now, but no codes or errors were found.”source ↗
“After that, I had the charge air hoses replaced because one of them was leaking and covered in oil. Unfortunately, this didn't change anything about the problem.”source ↗
“I was driving home when all of a sudden the engine started spinning fast as hell, so I switched to neutral and back to drive and that fixed the rpm but as I’m driving the speedometer and rpm started going up and down.”source ↗
“The dash went out, the mileage and trip A went out, the the speedometer, rpm and heat gauge went to 0”source ↗
“So after driving 30-45 min the car starts losing power/acceleration, not a full stall just gradually can't pull.”source ↗
“At this point I've ruled out exhaust and crank sensor and I'm out of ideas and pissed.”source ↗
“If I feather the gas pedal, I can very slowly speed up instead of having it choke out between 2500-3000rpm.”source ↗
“A week ago the car wouldn’t start after about 12 seconds of cranking, gave up came back and started but had those lights on.”source ↗
“That intermittent crank sensor is such a pain to pin down, had one on an older civic that would only act up after a heat soak then work fine for days”source ↗
“About 5 minutes later, while I was on the highway, the car suddenly lost almost all power and would not rev past 2,000 RPM.”source ↗
“should I call some other service and advise them to do wiggle test or something as I don’t know I should keep going to these guys that are advising me to go home and they don’t know what’s up”source ↗
“I’m not that experienced I’m wondering should I go and suggest them to fix it and try to look for error or drive it now and only wait and go if it happens again”source ↗
“Recently I've had my check engine light come on then turn off within a day or so a few times, so I bought a diagnostic code reader to see what was going on.”source ↗
“Also, a few times now I've had the battery warning light turn on WHILE DRIVING, which has freaked me out, but after sitting turned off for a few hours the car has run fine without any battery warnings the next time I have run it.”source ↗
“My left headlight is also sometimes really dim- it looks almost like the headlight is dead, but if you look close it is on, just not bright.”source ↗
“I can't afford to bring my car into a shop right now, so any help for what I can try on my own would be greatly appreciated!”source ↗
“For the past 2 months I've been having this problem where the car would randomly lose all power when driving and won't start up again.”source ↗
“I am desperate because since it is an intermittent problem it is difficult for a mechanic to notice since car will boot up again after having it stopped in the car workshop for multiple days.”source ↗
“That alternator is definitely suspect with the electrical gremlins and sudden restarts, especially at 200k+ miles”source ↗
“Get the battery and charging system tested somewhere else though, AutoZone's handheld testers miss intermittent issues all the time.”source ↗
“When the problem happens, turning the key causes a sound like the car \*considered\* cranking, but something failed. I wouldn't quite describe it as a "click", it's like a light thud.”source ↗
“The frustrating part: each time I’ve had it towed to a mechanic, both before and after my neutral safety switch replacement, it starts normally after being unloaded from the tow truck.”source ↗
“The shop hasn’t been able to observe the failure. It’s now back home and refusing to start again.”source ↗
“I’m trying to get a proper diagnosis rather than keep replacing parts.”source ↗
“For the last week my car has been doing this odd thing where it will start fine 3 times in a row but the 4th or 5th time the car is completely dead.”source ↗
“Won’t crank at all. I’ve been jumping it with a portable jumper and then it works normally again until the 4-5th start.”source ↗
“I took it to o’reillys and they said the battery and alternator was fine other than their machine saying the battery was a little low.”source ↗
“I have I have a 2025 Kia Sorento that the headlights have failed on three occasions while driving at night I live in the country so it's dark to Kia dealerships have told me they cannot find anything wrong with the car neither one of them knew about the recall until I got there what can I do”source ↗
“I was running it down the highway and it died on me and I got it run for about 2 miles and it ran very good transmission engine and everything then it died again going int my driveway”source ↗
“cant tell if this just means something happened in the past and wasn’t cleared or a current issue?”source ↗
“car runs like dog shit most days, stutters off a stop, randomly doesn’t like going up hills until I pump the gas and then it catches up all at once.”source ↗
“I have a 2010 Mazda 3 2.0 automatic transmission I was getting a AT light and engine light on and off I unplugged my battery and my PCM for a little bit and then re-plugged it and then when I started the car it was in limb mod and dash was tweaking out I have a video.”source ↗
“Previously, I hooked up the car to an auto scanner and scanned it and I got a code saying communication with PCM failed.”source ↗
“And then also on my dash it would say that the car is not revving zero RPMs, but the car is on.”source ↗
“It's having an electrical issue on the 5V Circuit causing Limp Mode, click no start. The issue is intermittent. Happens for 2 weeks, drives for 2 weeks, happens again.”source ↗
“Had it at two different shops that have wasted my time. I'm not electrical smart when it comes to vehicles but I can deal with anything physically like a starter or complete wheel change”source ↗
“Been having this issue for quite some time now and am at my wit's end with how to fix it. I have gone over or rebuilt everything and still don't know what it's doing.”source ↗
“There is no codes and nothing out of the ordinary on my scanner.”source ↗
“Since I’ve pretty much had this car (2019 Hyundai i10 Petrol 1L manual with around 95k on the miles) I’ve had problems.”source ↗
“My car keeps revving while stationary or while I’m driving in third gear for example it was rev from 3000 revvs to 4000 without me even touching the accelerator.”source ↗
“We are all at our wits end this is my first car and I can’t afford to not have a car right now and I also can’t afford to keep fixing this when I don’t know what is wrong.”source ↗
Where this came up
People with this problem also raised
- 5How to trace an intermittent short circuit in a car wiring harness
- 3Car won't charge despite new battery and alternator
- 148How to explain an intermittent car noise to a mechanic
- 14Why does my car lose power for a second when starting?
- 12Car still has electrical problems and high voltage after replacing parts
- 26Engine misfires and RPM surging when driving uphill