How to fix a pulled out threaded insert in thin aluminum
Instead of buying a new engine head, an automotive machinist can often repair the hole using a Time-Sert or an extended 14mm Big-Sert designed specifically for failed helicoils. This provides a cost-effective solution when mechanics claim the cylinder aluminum is too thin for a standard insert, letting you secure the bolt and eliminate the rattle without junking the part.
What people tried
Every workaround mentioned in the threads below. We haven’t tested any of them — and nobody here is claiming they worked.
Found another way around this?
Share your steps and trade-offs so fellow engineers don't have to reinvent the wheel. No account required.
- 1re-tapping the hole to the next size upDid this help you?
- 2inserting a Heli-CoilDid this help you?
- 3using a high temperature retaining compoundDid this help you?
- 4Using an oversized solid bushing insert like a Big-Sert to grab more material.Did this help you?
- 5Taking the head to a machinist to weld the hole shut, drill, and tap a new thread.Did this help you?
- 6Sourcing a good used cylinder head and swapping it entirely.Did this help you?
In their words
Unedited, grouped by where they were said, most upvoted first within each place, each linked to the thread it came from.
“Mechanic says aluminum in the cylinder too thin for insert/repair.”source ↗
“I’m NOT junking it but do I really need a new engine head? I’ve been researching but not sure that’s the most cost-effective/best option.”source ↗
“Can I repair it with a Time-Sert if I find an automotive engine/machinist technician?”source ↗
“If cyl aluminum is too thin (is that a thing?) there are the extended Big-Serts at 14m listed specifically for failed helicoils”source ↗
Where this came up
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