How to tile over an uneven subfloor without tearing it up

“Hello, I’m trying to install a vinyl floor and don’t know anything lol. I was curious if this subfloor was too uneven and if I should try to get it more level.”source ↗

“I’ve discovered that there are some high/low spots in the subfloor. I now feel like I’m doing more work than I need to.. Do we just us self leveler? Keep filling and sand down peaks? Put a layer of subfloor over it all? I’m so overwhelmed with this so any advice is appreciated.”source ↗

“I am tiling a 6ft wide bathroom floor with 12 x 12 tiles, but I've run into a subfloor leveling issue.”source ↗

“The floor is severely crowned right down the center at 3ft. There is a high ridge running along the center seam, and the subfloor slopes down by about 7/8 inch over 3 feet on both sides toward the wall and tub (roof-peak shape).”source ↗

“I know this is a screw up and I'm beating myself up already. Please be kind. I learned the lesson”source ↗

“Brand new house. Builder says this is within standards. Flooring rep says once there's rugs, furniture, curtains we won't notice. We think it's defective. Are we being unreasonable?”source ↗

“We are so discouraged, every day we cannot occupy is costing us hard money (paying rent and the mortgage for this house).”source ↗

“Appreciate someone explaining to me briefly/as a layman what I’m looking at in this room and what the options are.”source ↗

“My problem is the adjacent bathroom.”source ↗

“I see there's a ~1/2"x12" hump in front of the sink and there's NO Way laminate is going to ride over it. I can't use a floor leveler because it will run into the hallway.”source ↗

“cutting sheet flooring looks like it would be a nightmare.”source ↗

“It’s leaning two ways, down and away from our building, plus there is an old landing that is in the mix.”source ↗

“The new exterior door threshold sits below the slab level, so i think self leveling would only work up to a point.”source ↗

“In one area, the tile is already broken/missing and there’s a thick gray/cement-like material underneath that is also breaking apart. We want to remove the carpet and eventually install new porcelain tile ourselves, but we’re not sure what we’re looking at underneath the old tile.”source ↗

“The plan is for our contractor to tile tomorrow, but I'm feeling uneasy about how well the tile will hold up..”source ↗

“It's certainly not a rectangle.”source ↗

“We ended up with a nice highland with hills and valleys in the bedroom 😂”source ↗

“After removing the carpet, I see some areas are uneven and need to be leveled.”source ↗

“Should i sand down the whole floor to level the uneven edges and then level it or just level the uneven floorboards using the feather finish.”source ↗

“First off, let it fully cure. Secondly it does look like they may have used a little to much water, thats why its so light in color. It still may be fine tho let it cure and then see whats what”source ↗

“I’m just not sure with the size of the room , its use , the cost , and the repair work done in different aged boards on the side it would be worth it”source ↗

“I'm so annoyed because at the advice of my contractor, I went to a flooring supplier and told the sales rep I needed SPC with 6-8mm core thickness.”source ↗

“Am I totally cooked??!! Our subfloors are not even (old home) and I'm furious.”source ↗

“I removed the carpet from the subfloor and discovered for the most part the floor is even, but there’s a part of it where it’s not. I’ve used feather finish floor patch, but i find it’s not fully leveled yet even after 3 layers.”source ↗

“Where the seem is between floor boards, it’s a bit higher, so I’m trying to level it on both sides.”source ↗

“In the picture 1-2, 3-4 5-6 there are still some open gaps under when i check with the leveler when i place it right on the seam. How should i approach this.”source ↗

“1975 townhouse, boards too damaged and squeaky and loose to just pour timber leveller on top and it’d just give me problems down the track.”source ↗

“Have tried nailing and screwing them down. Nada.”source ↗

“It's not super unlevel but it has parts by the thresholds that almost have 1/4 inch gaps.”source ↗

“Do I put self leveler over this? How do I clean or patch this so I can put LVP on this?”source ↗

“My main concern is that the area near where the nosing will go is not even. There are basically three levels, three altitudes there, I marked them on the last picture. And the nosing won't be wide enough to cover all of that.”source ↗

“How do I approach that? I guess I'd need to make it all leveled. My initial though was to either cut the excess material with a multitool (kind of like you'd cut a baseboard, but upside down), or to sand it down to the level.”source ↗

“With a 1/4 inch drop, I would use a transition. Thats tricky to make up in that hallway area. A LOT of fine finish and floor prep to get the slope right on three sides. What's that effort worth to you?”source ↗

“For your own house, and as a first timer - use the transition. I think it will be easier and less stress, and you will be ok with the final appearance.”source ↗

“The front entrance of my home had tile/ marble on it that was falling apart. I removed it and will be placing LVP in the entire home. What’s the best way to prep this section? I hear LVP is really picky about unevenness thanks!”source ↗

“What can I do to leave it as is and tile over it not disrupting it at all?”source ↗

“Thank you, some places i have may be a 1/4” unevenness. I’ll just used the floor patch.”source ↗

“Am I overreacting on the floor prep for flex lvt? I don’t want to hassle the installers, but also don’t want to have it peel up in 2 years.”source ↗

“To be clear, they already used compound to level it between the stairs and closet, but it created a bump that I can feel walking over it from the front door direction.”source ↗

“The underlayment turned out with large white streaks. These are soft and I can press my fingernail into them 16 hours after pour. What will they have to do?”source ↗

“I’m getting ready to redo my kitchen floor and this will be my first tile installation.”source ↗

“I pulled up the existing LVP and found what appears to be an old wood plank subfloor with some type of gray material/underlayment over part of it.”source ↗

“I’m planning to install 12x24 porcelain tile. The hardwood in the adjacent dining room is only about 1/4” higher than the current kitchen subfloor, so I’m trying to keep the tile assembly as thin as reasonably possible.”source ↗

“I’m a bit nervous about subfloor sheeting as opposed to another form of insulation - I’ve read airflow is important in a suspended floor and am not sure if this would be “too good” at insulating”source ↗

“I'm so worried we're stuck with these floors and so mad that I took the sales rep's word for it.”source ↗

“I hit two specific spots where the OSB subfloor is actively delaminating.”source ↗

“The wood is flaking apart, and touching it essentially makes it worse.”source ↗

“I know the ideal answer is usually to cut out the damaged section joist-to-joist and replace the OSB, but I'm honestly hesitant to cut into it if I can avoid it.”source ↗

“I've since added an interior perimeter drain with a sump pump which will hopefully prevent these saturated ground conditions from happening again.”source ↗

“The slab is uneven, has some past moisture damage (efflorescence), and a few areas where old self-leveler is crumbling/flaking.”source ↗

“I've been given two very different suggestions which I'm looking to select from.”source ↗

“We just pulled back the carpet and see the concrete and wood are not level with each other. Will I be fine or do I need to put something to bring the wood level with the concrete.”source ↗

“Can I proceed with underlayment and lvp installation if there's a 4mm gap over 1 ft distance?”source ↗

“I have a bag of self leveler, but reading how people have had mixed experiences and that it can be tricky to do properly, i'd rather the floor being within the accepted range for gap differences and proceed with the installation.”source ↗

“I have a room that I'd like to cover in LVP click locks, but found it wasn't working because some of the tiles have lips.”source ↗

“I thought this was going to be an easy project but it's been turning into a stressful headache with new steps being added and having to start over with minimal progress being made.”source ↗

“I don't really want to screw with it because it's a good chance it's abestos”source ↗

“A joists seems to be higher than the rest and causes a 3 mm dip around the high point.”source ↗

“Any chance we can get away with this much dip over 5 ft? I would really like to avoid taking out 50+ nails and making this job harder.”source ↗

“I’m getting ready to install LVP in our basement and have two issues I’m trying to figure out before I get too far.”source ↗

“We originally wanted heated floors in the basement, but I backed away from it because it seemed like installing electric heat cable/mats would require covering basically the entire basement with self-leveling compound.”source ↗

“I’m mainly trying to avoid turning this into a project where I need to pour 1/4–1/2”+ of self-leveler across the entire basement just to have heated floors.”source ↗

“There is a few issues with the flooring. At the moment its at the insulation stage (?). It's about 20cm thick.”source ↗

“1. There's a slight incline to it. Something like 1%.”source ↗

“2. There's unevenness across the floor where it dips at certain points. Not by an extreme amount, but about 5mm.”source ↗

“3. There's a good amount of "give" at certain points, especially towards the middle of the floor.”source ↗

“Ive got this crazy dip in the floor that seems to have a diameter of like 3 feet in a circular feeling pattern. When I step in this spot you can physically feel your body drop down below the level of the rest of the room.”source ↗

“Issue is this tongue in groove flooring is very meticulous. Anyone have any tips on proper repair?”source ↗

“The connections are getting messed up by the floor’s uneven nature.”source ↗

“Iv been there. Bit off way more than I could chew as a first time diy”source ↗

“Some spot through out the house, step on it and feel kind of sunk down and rocking.”source ↗

“Panel with tape cracked after moving living in house for a few weeks, high traffic pathway.”source ↗

“I want to put LVP on top and don’t want to remove these tiles however those bumps in the some of the tiles would cause issues with the LVP of course.”source ↗

“Should I try to remove these and do they seem to be asbestos(smaller than 9inches more like 5-6inches)? Or should I seal and then use the leveling compounds?”source ↗

“the hallway is about a 1/4” lower than the bedroom. I’m worried grinding/patching will throw off the flatness in the other direction in both rooms.”source ↗

“We just closed on a house and after we got the keys and it was empty i noticed the floors look unlevel.”source ↗

“I took a level to it and in some areas, the level doesn’t touch the ground on one side.”source ↗

“The really big gap off the floor is near the back door and when you walk over that area you can see some flooring pieces bounce a bit.”source ↗

“1975 townhouse, boards too damaged and squeaky and loose to just pour timber leveller on top and it’d just give me problems down the track.”source ↗

“The only solution I can think of is putting ply or something on top, OR ripping it up completely and replacing with yellow tongue structafloor but I have no experience with that (and not paying absurd fees for someone to do it).”source ↗

“It’s just so easy to tell it’s laid over tile, unsure how to describe it but it moves around in a way the LVP in other rooms doesn’t.”source ↗

“Is there a way to replace it with different LVP and not have that feeling when you walk on it?”source ↗